Our full review for Palmer Harding's Spring 2020 collection is in:
As Levi Palmer explained it, a selection of dilapidated Soviet-era Russian bus stops provided the inspiration for this Palmer Harding collection. That makes it sound way less appealing than it was. Matthew Harding’s preamble about the collection hardly made you want to scramble to pre-order either: “There is a lot of balance between optimism and pessimism, working to find a balance between not being naive about all the troubling uncertainties of now and not allowing them to jam you up.
One particular depressing but architecturally impressive bus stop, all floating folds of Brutalist concrete and wan wasteland, inspired the pair to focus on extraction pleating . This created a very interesting modular cinching effect on a white shirt, and some equally innovative effects on pleated shorts.
Another influence was the photography of William Eggleston— the designers were drawn to his play of bright color against mundane subject—and an example of this was a bishop-sleeve collarless shirt whose green and red exactly mirrored the pink and green of an Eggleston shot. Knitwear, a growing category for the brand, included a long dress in shadowy, angled stripes. A full, folded shoulder and back detail that proved a hit last season was carried over in jackets and jersey tops. The designers have merged what was their vacation line into their main, and for Spring it featured full-volume separates in neutral-tone check seersucker. A long chambray dress boasted that reliable staple, a set of phantom sleeves knotted to work as a belt.
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