It’s a big theme this week. Plus: Stella McCartney cultivates mushrooms. cathyhoryn reviews Paris Fashion Week
From left to right: Alexandre Blanc, Chanel, Stella McCartney. Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Alexandre Blanc, Chanel, and Stella McCartney Today’s Chanel show seemed to be two shows running simultaneously. There was the show on the runway — a raised catwalk as in the 1980s, flanked by photographers — and the one that the photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and her partner Vinoodh Matadin were shooting at the end of the runway.
Chanel. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel The models, in turn, were playing a part. They were friskier, smiling, walking in the manner of girls of yore, though a few had trouble making it look natural, since almost no model today walks with the hip swing of a young Naomi Campbell or a Marpessa Hennink. Alexandre Blanc. Photo: Courtesy of Alexandre Blanc It’s been a strange season, with big luxury brands trying to return to “normal” — holding arena-style shows loaded with celebrities — and others going populist in the street, and with more simplified clothes. So maybe that’s why designers who went their own way stood apart. One is the designer Alexandre Blanc, who started his label a little more than two years ago, after returning to Paris from a stint in New York at Oscar de la Renta.
When I asked Blanc about the difference, he paused and said, “I have a very good friend from Oscar de la Renta, who was very close to Oscar, and he told me, ‘Alex, it’s a shame, because sometimes you are doing more personal work for Oscar than for your own brand. How come?’ It’s so difficult to expose yourself. I’m not a specialist of Instagram, I’m not a specialist in communication. It’s taken me five seasons to get here.
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