Olso’s Booming Art, Architecture and Food Scenes Are Giving the City a Luxe New Edge

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Olso’s Booming Art, Architecture and Food Scenes Are Giving the City a Luxe New Edge
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Norway's capital has a new glow these days. Here's why.

I’m standing on, beside a young family having a picnic, gaggles of teenagers and tourists taking selfies. The roof slants all the way down to the broad plaza, doubling as a ramp. Around 100 of us are gathered at the top on this chill late-winter dusk to experience one of the finest viewpoints in the city.

There are three things you need to know about Oslo. One is that the Norwegian capital, with a population of 700,000 people, is a pipsqueak by European standards. The second is that Norwegians are no enthusiasts of change. Things aren’t as good as they were, they grumble happily. And third, keep in mind that until 1969, this was a nation of fishermen and farmers.

The museum represents the latest element of the ongoing Fjordbyen urban-renewal scheme launched in the 1980s. There’s no faulting its harborside location. Ferries thrum to nearby islands. Walkers promenade in the sunshine. The light has that sparkling luminescence of the coast. Here you are in the heart of a European capital, yet the mood evokes seaside holidays. It’s rather lovely.

“It will make Oslo a real center for arts and culture in North Europe,” marketing director Tord Krogtoft tellsadding that it may be the only big national museum to open this year. “It is world news.” He considers a moment, then adds with a smile, “It’s quiteInstallation of art in the 87 rooms, spread between two floors, is underway.

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