.normakamali's resort 2023 collection is in! See every look:
With its sparkling beaded tops, velvets, and tartan prints, Norma Kamali’s resort collection feels “extra.” While it’s as wash-and-go as always, this lineup is also determinedly ornate, luxe, and showy. People want to feel good, the designer says, and fashion is a means of escapism. The question is whether that escapism is moving toward something or is a now or never proposition .
In 1987 New York Magazine used the coverline “Dancing on the Lip of a Volcano” when writing about Christian Lacroix’s 1987 benefit show in the Winter Garden. That event took place a week after the collapse of the financial markets and served as a coda to the era. The headline’s been haunting me lately. When I asked Kamali—who has a sixth sense for undercurrents of change if she was getting the same vibe—she replied: “I can’t believe you said that because it’s exactly what I’m feeling.
Kamali is proposing glamour for resort, the kind that doesn’t sacrifice comfort, and that comes at a range of price points. Those winning beaded tops are modeled on a digital jewel print, which came first. This use of technology, and Kamali’s play with the real/fake dichotomy seems prescient. Like every Kamali collection, this one includes pieces from the designer’s extensive archive. Having discovered a series of photographs of dancers wearing her sculpture dress designs, Kamali reissued them, adding sparkle to the cutout sleeves or a turtleneck. Her revival of the Diana slip dress and the butterfly pieces was more intuitive, she says.
The news here is a return, which is happening g elsewhere too, to a sort of formal looking, if not stiff, femininity with a vaguely ’40s or ’50s twist. A counterpoint to Kamali’s tight off-the-shoulder jacket is a roomier washed denim one with mutton sleeves. A structured strapless gown with pockets offers Golden Age of Hollywood-type vibes—its “wing-hip” details a symbolic means of escape.
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