🍕🍕🍕🍕🍕🍕 (thank you, billaddison)
In 2017, Alimento’s Zach Pollack took over a space in Echo Park where Pizza Buona had resided for decades. It sits on an angled bend of Sunset Boulevard and Alvarado Street. The location is apt, since the pizzeria positions itself at several crossroads: between old-line neighborhood joint and affluent date-night destination, between Italian American comfort and Los Angeles glamour, between pizza orthodoxy and modernism.
Walk through the bar and order your pizzas in the back parking lot; the flames and embers inside the tiled oven that Swemle built himself ignite the night sky. He layers on ingredients with restraint: a bianco with pickled peppers, oregano, shallots and dollops of silky ricotta; the kind of puffed Margherita with a soft center you can manage by hand but also eat with knife and fork. It can be hard to find a seat inside, but persevere: These beauties are made to be eaten straight from the oven.
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