If a perfume isn’t made anymore, is it gone forever?
Photo: Public domain/Arquivo Nacional Collection/Wikimedia Commons, Getty Images Perfume genius Mandy Aftel told me it wasn’t going to work out. “I’ve been on the hunt,” she said, with a tone of warning in her voice. Anyone who’s read Aftel’s intoxicating book on natural perfumes, Essence and Alchemy, would crave her wisdom, even if it was dire dismissal. I needed a mystery perfume that an elegant writer of fiction once wore and lost, and so I tracked Aftel down.
CLAH RICE! Tell me what your perfume was! I required the smell of rustic harsh hidden sweetness and so I used all the resources available to me to do it. I forced an adventure into my life. This is where my question for Aftel comes in: Is an old bottle of Vert et Blanc going to have the same scent? Can I re-create a perfume if I know all the notes?
The constant refresh rewarded me one day. Someone was charging a reasonable $22 for two fluid ounces, in an original cheery box, with Kelly green and white and new-in-the-1950s perfume technology: “The Mis-s-s-st-i-fier.” The Mis-s-s-st-i-fier releases a fine spray, which requires a paper instruction.
Wilson-Brown added that even if it was stored perfectly, the aldehydes are so fragile, they’d probably be damaged by now anyway. We waited out the base notes, and she cautioned me that with old scents, the top notes are often the first to go bad so you need to be patient after that first hit. “Real perfume nerds have a special closet in their house, the coolest darkest spot.” I asked if she had one, and she said no, she’s not a nerd.
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