Looking for a place to honor and celebrate mom on her special day? Restaurant critic Merrill Shindler offers his suggestions.
To make Mother’s Day extra special – and to avoid the extra work of kitchen and dinner table cleanup – restaurant critic Merrill Shindler has several suggestions for brunch, lunch or dinner. An online ad just popped up on my email that pretty well defies the conundrum of Mother’s Day for me. It read “Show Mom some love: Spoil mom this Mother’s Day with a delightful brunch … enjoy a delicious spread, a stunning view and celebrate the amazing woman in your life.
Mother’s Day may be the most difficult holiday of the year — even more difficult than Valentine’s Day, which is generally accepted as a scam for selling cards and boxes of candy. Mother’s Day is taken seriously by mothers. It’s a day to tread lightly. It took 44 years for that notion to finally be adopted. But only a decade for it to be turned into one of the biggest sales days of the year for greeting cards, and boxes of candy.
But game is found just once on the brunch menu, for which most opt to sit outdoors, on the patio with its view of the distant Saddle Peak, its humming birds, its foraging critters and the occasional wedding on the edge of the patio., with dishes that are recognizable — but also given a steroid boost to make them so much more than they usually are.
There’s an oversized Snake River Farms wagyu beef burger on a brioche, with bleu cheese, a fried egg and french fries on the side. Should you want to go even lunchier, the roasted Skuna Bay salmon is a finely turned hunk of fish, with a mix grill of veggies — a perfect lunch, say I. Where are the Birkenstock people? The rawtarians, and breathairians, and strange grain obsessives? Has healthy eating finally crossed over into the world of the hipper-than-thou? Apparently so.
There’s a Devil’s Advocate chocolate cake with cream cheese frosting. And a Lickety Split ice cream sundae thing that’s essentially a kitchen sink for dessert. The mention notes that it’s “shareable.” I guess that’s what makes it guilt-free.is every East Coaster’s image of the high life here on the Left Coast. The menu here is best described as bi-coastal Modern Steakhouse.
Speaking of Wagyu — there are three on the menu — two from Japan, one from Australia. There are also five steaks under “Classics” and four under “Dry-aged.” One of the “Classics” is indicated as “kosher” — curious in a restaurant that offers an Iberico pork chop. There are spaghetti and meatballs too, which is as unexpected as a Big Mac with fries would be. But it is good to have a choice.
There are Peruvian bay scallops, wild Littleneck clams, wild Mexican jumbo brown shrimp, wild San Diego rock crab, and wild Maine lobster — there’s an admirable commitment here to stay away from farmed fish, except where necessary. This is a fish house that lives up to its name. Myself, I go for the micheladas — flavored beer drinks, with your choice of brew mixed with lime juice, with Worcestershire and Tabasco, or with sangrita and lime. It’s refreshing, it goes down easy, and it’s a deal.
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