Silvio Frlic has worked at Brooklyn red sauce stalwart Bamonte’s for 41 years. Silvio Frlic has seen some things.
, one of the few institutions that remain from that era, an Italian-American white-tablecloth time capsule dating back to 1900.
Things have changed a lot since. The neighborhood, Williamsburg, has morphed into a hipster mecca. The rents have skyrocketed. Most of the original restaurants have closed. Many of their customers have passed away. But Bamonte’s, says Frlic, has changed very little—well, aside from the fact that he no longer presses the juice out of an entire duck carcass tableside.
Everything was done in front of you. All the salads, pastas, whole fish, even—we’d fillet it at the table. Cherries jubilee, crepes suzette. My favorite was duck à la presse. They half-cook a whole duck, and you put it in a machine and squeeze all the juices out at the table. Then you bring it back in the kitchen, and they make the sauce. You bring it back out and flambé it.Back then, if you didn’t know how to do everything in front of the customer, you didn’t have no job.
This here used to be all warehouses and factories. Everybody left. They went to China, India, Mexico, Carolinas, Texas. Who ended up with the property? The city. They changed the zone to residential and the prices went through the roof overnight.Yeah, but not like Bamonte’s. If I go to any of those places, I have to double order. Portions are tiny—all decoration. Over here, they give you the real McCoy. If you eat one dish, you’re satisfied. And besides, it’s good.Oh, they’re very nice.
Oh, yeah. Not often. But a guy the other day, he’s going with his hand like this—talking about how big something was—as I was passing by. What are you gonna do? Plate of food to the man; plate’s on the floor. You know why?Because his kids were there. If I didn’t do that, I would’ve burned his kids. He got a little on him, yeah, but I told him, “Suppose I spilled all this hot food on top of your kids?” Then he apologized, said, “You’re right, you’re right.” Yeah.
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