It's not under-mashed hummus--it's masabacha!
, or probably a dozen other spellings depending on your chosen transliteration of the original Arabic and Hebrew words for"swimming." Swimming, because the chickpeas are left whole, bobbing in the creamy tahini sauce., a book about cookbook author Paula Wolfert's life. In it, I found a recipe for masabacha, which Wolfert dubbed"Deconstructed Hummus." I can't think of a better way to describe it.
I've since found many more recipes for masabacha, and, while there are differences from one to the next, the basic idea is the same: Make hummus, but stop before blending all the chickpeas into the tahini sauce. Wolfert assembles hers by first putting down a pile of seasoned chickpeas, then spooning the tahini sauce, plus lots of parsley, on top. Others stir the chickpeas and tahini sauce together, then spoon all of it onto the plate. Sometimes, a small quantity of chickpeas or hummus is blended into the tahini, with even more whole chickpeas added after that. The websitedescribes renditions that are thicker and thinner, spicier and milder, some served warm and others not.
What's so fun about it is that it opens up so many more possibilities in the world of hummus, an entire spectrum of new textures, consistencies, flavorings, and presentations. It's also really easy to make. You can start with your favorite hummus recipe, but I beg you to use cooked-from-dried chickpeas if at all possible, not canned ones.
It's also critical to cook the chickpeas until they're as tender as they can be. Chickpeas are a strange legume in this regard—they candone long before they truly are. Once you've cooled down a batch that you thought was soft enough, it's not uncommon to discover they've regained a firm and gritty texture. Take them further than you think they should go, because a melting, velvety bite is what you want. If some of the chickpeas fall to pieces in the process, so be it.
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