The fall 2023 Marni collection featured a vast array of tailoring, knitwear, and dresses in a color palette limited to black, white, and primary reds and yellows. See every look:
A drastic change of hairstyle often means a page must be turned and a reset is in order. Francesco Risso chopped off his bleached curls right before today’s Marni show in Tokyo. “I think it was time to start a new chapter,” he said at a preview, sporting a neat new buzz cut and a groomed beard. He looked serene, and rather cool, in an ascetic-chic all-white outfit, wearing a slender goatskin coat over pajamas cut from sheets of pristine, rustling wrapping paper.
Showing in Tokyo now just felt right. “Here in Japan I’ve found a profound sense of patience, of stillness, of respect, something that in the West I believe we’re losing.” He continued: “We’re surrounded by futility. After three years of pandemic, where we all have been vocal about the changes we wanted in the system, to slow down, etc., we’re back to square one. We are again devoured by the brutality of the algorithm.
Risso is a musician, and learning how to play the cello over the pandemic taught him that hard-won discipline is creatively rewarding. It’s about achieving a composition that balances rhythm and rigor, “the pause and the note.” Making clothes is about giving life to objects “that have a harmonious, pleasant sound.” He knows the power of music as a great equalizer, and his consummate showmanship came once again to the fore tonight.
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