'An Italian master taught me how the region’s best natural wines get made. And then he taught me some more.'
But I wouldn’t let that stop me from learning everything I could from this Marcucci character. On this visit he guided a group of us through his wines. I asked a billion questions, elbowed my way to the front of every tasting, and sprinted down four flights of stairs after eating three pounds of pasta to clarify his position on using volcanic sulfur to protect against powder mold in the vineyard.
Marcucci lives by a strict code of winemaking: no chemicals in the vineyard, no technology in the cellar. But “no technology” doesn’t mean he pumps his juice into a Crock-Pot and lets whatever happens happen. Working strictly with spontaneous fermentation—where a wine begins fermentation naturally without added yeast—he is attentive and attuned to his wines, living within the small intersection of science and spirituality.
Marcucci handed me a pair of clippers and a crate. I dug my bare knees into the long grass and thistles, the rocky soil covered in dead branches and prickly weeds. I could sense the hives running up and down my legs, but it didn’t matter. I felt connected to wine in a way I never had before. After the Ciliegiolo was picked, we walked up the rolling hills to Vini di Giovanni’s tiny cellar. It had two steel tanks, two vats, and an old wooden winepress. Marcucci strapped on a rubber apron. “Wash this down, drag that hose there, bring those crates here,” he instructed. Floods of coral juice poured out of the press into vats along with a, a native yeast starter. Marcucci mixed the pied de cuve into the juice with the full length of his arm, then rested and stared into the frothy abyss.
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