Mario Ceballos represents the POC Fungi Community, which works on facilitating programming, events, and education centered on edible and medicinal mushrooms and helping communities of color reconnect to traditional foods
They had to call them out because it was happening again. Mario Ceballos and the other members of thelearned about a couple of groups in New York and Chicago who were growing and serving what they were calling “corn caviar.” Turns out, an individual traveled to Oaxaca, Mexico, tasted huitlacoche, and came back to the U.S. to feature it on a restaurant menu and rename it “corn caviar” and “corn truffle.
“But huitlacoche is hard to say. It doesn’t sound appetizing, so they started changing the name … that way, it seems more appealing,” Ceballo says. “That’s when we heard of these farmers becoming famous for ‘discovering’ how to grow huitlacoche, so when we’d seen that, we were like, ‘Oh, here it is. It’s another form of colonization and erasure.
Cancer rates and asthma rates are higher, diabetes rates are disproportionately higher for Black and Indigenous, migrant neighborhoods. It was keeping me up at night knowing what’s going on and having that perspective of the health care system and the environmental system. Then, seeing all of this amazing work happening within science and ecology, I was seeing a lot of excitement in the fungi world around remediation and things like cleaning the soil, environment, and water and stuff.
Then, highlighting the fact that we’re kind of separated from our food and some of us don’t even know what a tortilla looks like, so I had everybody come up and make a tortilla, grab some masa and roll it around, flatten it in their hand, and cook it up. It was amazing because some of them have never done it before and then all of these stories come out because there’s ancestral memory that gets unlocked.
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