“Growing up eating a Ukrainian version of borscht, rich with oxtail meat and beets, I knew nothing of the soup’s astounding variations.” Olia Hercules’s ode to borscht, from 2017.
During my childhood in Ukraine, my family had only one way of making borscht. Place oxtail in a heavy pot with cold water and aromatics. Simmer for hours until the meat is tender and the stock rich and viscous. Add the skimmed fat to a frying pan to soften the, a Ukrainian sofrito of diced onions and finely julienned carrots, until the natural sugars are drawn out.
In the years since, I’ve become a chef and cookbook author, and in researching varieties of borscht I’ve discovered an astounding range of preparations. The soup is eaten everywhere in Eastern Europe, from the formerly Prussian Kaliningrad, where Russia now meets Poland, all the way through the Caucasus, and extends into Iran and Central Asia, finishing somewhere out by the eastern island of Sakhalin, near Japan, or the Kamchatka Peninsula, near Alaska.
Beef, well-marbled and on the bone, is one of the most cited sources for stock-making, but pork stocks seem to have the most variations, with versions made of anything from simple fresh cuts to smoked ribs, ham hocks, and sausages in Hungary and Poland to crunchy pork ears in Ukraine. Lacking pork or beef, you can always use a wiry rooster; its tough meat might stick between your teeth, but its bones will help to create the most flavorsome of broths.
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