It deserves an easy-to-reach spot on every home cook’s bookshelf.
What follows is a delicious globe-spanning cookbook, interwoven with personal essays that tell of Onwuachi’s travels to the lands of his ancestors: Louisiana, Nigeria, Trinidad and Tobago, Jamaica, and New York. One of the things that I like most about the cookbook, though, is that it is not organized based on these locations.
This diasporic conversation can be seen in the chapter on rice, for example, where one page spotlights a recipe for Carolina Gold rice from the American South, the next offers a recipe for rice and peas from Jamaica, and a few pages later is a recipe for jollof rice, one of the most well-known dishes of Nigerian cuisine. The dishes feel quite natural next to each other, like cousins gathering at a family reunion.
I was most excited to try Onwuachi’s take on the traditional Nigerian dishes I grew up with. So, I set out to try his recipe for chin chin, which he describes as “nutmeg-riddled fried puffs of dough, the Nigerian contribution to filling mankind’s desire for crunchy, sweet snacks.” Growing up in California, I always anticipated the holiday season because that was when my father was able to pause from his busy work schedule to prepare a special dish for my siblings and me.
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