The Kenzo show exuded more of a grown-up, Parisian sophistication this season as the designer eased up on preppy and collegiate themes.
Takada and the French capital a central theme of his Kenzo. “A bridge between cultures,” is how he put it during a preview.
For spring, the designer conscripted Japanese graphic artist Verdy to create a striking serif font for a new Kenzo Paris logo, which he stamped on judo jackets and canvas tote bags, and repeated as a busy print for T-shirts, windbreakers and parkas. Despite all that branding, Nigo’s spring women’s and men’s collections exuded more of a grown-up, Parisian sophistication this season as the designer eased up on preppy and collegiate themes, putting slingback kitten heels on all his female models, and adding a little heel protectors so shoes wouldn’t get stuck in the bridge’s wooden slats.
One did, but no matter.
Kenzo womenswear has had some growing pains — Nigo’s background is in men’s fashion — and this collection marked a big improvement, more resolutely feminine with body-skimming silhouettes, gauzier fabrics and gentler colors.
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