Tumble into Alice in Wonderland with this otherworldly collection
, the Spanish luxury house which he has led since 2013, the designer is constantly pushing for a shake up of our sartorial senses, asking us to see the world differently. “There was a balance between keeping it rooted and grounded but at the same time pushing it because that’s what we have to do,” Jonathan explained.
In dialogue with Hilary’s flickering work, the collection was similarly otherworldly and dreamlike, with long and pure silouhettes, disrupted, at times, by the tension of new, unexpected volumes. “I wanted the space to feel that there was an effortlessness to it because this is what the brand should be about, from its sensual lightness through to the signature fabrics and key codes that we’ve been building over the last six years.” Six, transformative years.
The nomadic spirit of the collection also reaffirmed Loewe’s dedication to global craft. Here, the house signature oro ‘cashmere’ suede mingled with locally-woven textiles in tunic and caftan shapes with split placket and buckled yoke details. Hand-embroidered red and white cotton from Bangladesh, hand-dyed and woven indigo cloth from Burkino Faso and ultrafine blue linen denim and punched cotton gauze from Japan. Elsewhere, there were echoes to Loewe’s breakout decade, the 70s.
Complementing the free flowing nautical archetypes, from sailor’s shirts to washed silk dungarees, monochrome short suits in layers of poplin and voile met airy knits and tanks in chevron or vertical stripes. Expanding on the season’s nomadic mood, thatched moccasins, suede link sandals and boat shoes evoked outdoor summer pursuits, as lace-up boots in espadrille stripes channelled Loewe’s Spanish roots.
“With this dreamscape, there’s this questioning of something that can be so hyperised,” the designer explained of the show before asking the circle of critics a question that silenced us: “Is fashion normal in the context of where we are today?” Has it ever been? Against the backdrop of the climate crisis and state of domestic and global politics, we see his point. “Where does it leave us? We all meet backstage and we’ve normalised the idea of being at a fashion show.
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