Examining why oeufs mayonnaise, the French appetizer requiring just two ingredients, is making an unexpected comeback.
In our current more-is-more era of extreme spice, outsized umami, and piles of fresh herbs, who could have predicted the comeback of oeufs mayonnaise? The monochromatic French staple is essentially hard-boiled eggs cloaked in mayonnaise, yet it has inspired, Oakland, Tokyo, and beyond. And it’s not all old-school oeufs anymore: In Paris last year, I tried versions topped with bottarga, preserved lemon, and chicharrones—each new riff breathing life into the dusty classic.
The egg has been a career-long obsession of Jacques Pépin, the famous French chef and author of the 1967 cookbook. “You have many, many variations, and it is a very satisfying dish. It’s easy to do. And if you have a dinner, you can do it ahead,” he says. “You just have to put it on the plate.”, tells me that “oeufs frais” appeared on menus as early as the 1760s, when a Paris establishment called Vacossin’s advertised the specialty. A few decades later, they were ubiquitous.
For some chefs in the United States, the dish is an opportunity to showcase flashy ingredients or regional flavors. Atin Portland, Oregon, the oeufs mayonnaise feature trout roe, bacon, roasted garlic, and maple.
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