Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta said they want their clothes to look more “straightforward.” CathyHoryn reviews Eckhaus Latta, Oscar de la Renta, and Proenza Schouler at NYFW
Left to right: Eckhaus Latta, Oscar de la Renta, Proenza Schouler. Photo: Shutterstock, Getty Images Guests arriving yesterday for Eckhaus Latta in a warehouse on Baltic Street in Brooklyn discovered not one enormous room but two. With the seating set up near the walls, the open space felt hugely generous — and more than a little symbolic. The designers, Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta, were in effect saying, “We have room to grow; that’s how confident we are in our work.
Eckhaus Latta Photo: Shutterstock There was a more uniform quality to the manufacture of the knits and tailoring — not slick and “flat” exactly, but gone was the individual or hand-made feel that had characterized most of Eckhaus Latta’s pieces. Also worth noting were the pantsuits. Though not new for the label, they are definitely more refined and particular, in dark jade and white, with oversize pants and a beautifully cut, natural-shoulder jacket.
Throughout his long career, the late de la Renta continually updated his style — the crisp tailoring in tweed and double-faced wool, the decorative knits, the sumptuous gowns. He had lots of references in his cultivated head, but, at the same time, he was attuned to what women would buy. The trouble with Proenza Schouler is that designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough never really set down a recognizable signature. They were known for their experiments with novel material, and for themes or flourishes that had a contemporary-art-world connection. And like a lot of youngish designers, they sampled the ideas of others.
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