Acorns and fat California hazelnuts trail along the center of the table — several tables, actually, a lovely varnished slab of naked redwood and several plastic folding numbers covered in Indian blankets, pushed end-to-end to snake the narrow length of this Berkeley patio.
Close up of a leaf of “Indian lettuce” as Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino gather ingredients in the East Bay area the Ohlone have long called Halkin, with parts now in Southern Oakland, Castro Valley and Hayward.Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino gather ingredients in the Berkeley Hills for a dinner at Cafe Ohlone.
We eat hazelnut biscuits, round like hush puppies. It’s a modern dish, a kind of soft, lightly sweetened cookie ball made from hazelnut flour, coconut sugar, vanilla, walnut oil and bay salt. “We gather these hazelnuts when we can,” Medina says, “but we have to be very honest about how hazelnut groves are threatened here in the East Bay, so we often can’t gather as much as we want.”
The next course is venison albondigas, the meatballs made from a deer that somebody they know shot. They’re sunk in a murky broth of wild mushrooms, flavored with California bay and dried porcini — it tastes rich but flat, and the meatballs are bland. Next to it is a salad of pure exuberance: watercress, wild sorrel and pickleweed foraged near the bay, with caramelized native gooseberries and fresh currants, walnuts, piñon nuts and hazelnuts crushed in a mortar.
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