Here's how to do the tie-less suit look just right
of state including President Biden, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and outgoing Italian Prime Minister Mario Draghi posed for photos at last month’s G-7 Summit in Germany, it was clear they’d reached a consensus on at least one issue: Ties are passé. Though all seven men wore suits and starched white shirts, there was no neckwear in sight.
“Taking the tie off is a way to say, ‘Hey, I’m relaxed, and I’m going to be open with you,’” said Richard Thompson Ford, professor of law at Stanford University and author of “Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History.” But the leaders’ styling instincts achieved the opposite. “They don’t look comfortable. There’s something awkward about [their outfits],” said Mr. Ford.
When there’s no strip of silk to divert the eye, it’s especially important that the suit fits snugly, said Dag Granath, co-founder of Stockholm tailor Saman Amel. The jacket should sit neatly on your shoulders and hug the back of your neck, he said, praising the G-7 fit of Italy’s Mr. Draghi . A quiet, unstructured shoulder—rather than a boxy rope one—is ideal, said London tailor Charlie Casely-Hayford, because the “softer line pairs nicely with an open-collared shirt.
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