How a Royal Rice Grain Took Over Korean Fine Dining

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How a Royal Rice Grain Took Over Korean Fine Dining
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Imported from Korea and milled in Brooklyn, Golden Queen rice is popping up at Michelin-starred restaurants like Atomix and Cote (via EaterNY)

For his Golden Queen, Dr. Cho tapped into Korea’s collective nostalgia, injecting the grains with a fragrance, not of popcorn, but rather nurungji, the scorched rice traditionally found at the bottom of pots, now supplanted by electric rice cookers. He dialed down amylose and protein levels so the rice would stay sticky and moist longer. And for the farmers, he produced hardier crops.

Hooni Kim, however, nixed the idea of serving the Golden Queen at Danji and Hanjan. “It’s just so expensive,” he says. “I can’t charge $20 for a bowl of rice.” To give a sense of the pricing differential against popular white rice brands at H Mart: A 40-pound bag of Kyong Gi Me retails for $42 ; 15 pounds of Nishiki, $29 ; and five pounds of Kim’C Market’s Golden Queen, $26 .

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