In an interview, fashion designer Dries Van Noten discusses his retirement, the legacy of Antwerp designers, and his unique approach.
“As nerve-wracking as ever, maybe more because, of course, the pressure is on. I think the expectations are high,” the Belgian designer related over Zoom from Antwerp, referring to preparations ahead of his swan-song show on Saturday night in Paris, some 38 years after he launched his brand.
“The idea was not to look back. Of course, people who know me will recognize certain themes, small details and certain elements which are coming back,” he said. “But it’s a collection takes a few steps forward. I didn’t want to be nostalgic, but look to the future and make a collection where there’s quite a lot of experiments of materials, and things like that.”
“As a group of friends, there was a healthy competition between us and we stimulated each other to go forward, to do more and to do better,” Van Noten said. “I think we learned more from each other than from the teachers.” “I need shoes and bags to come to complete the image. But I’m still a garment designer, I love to design clothes,” he said.
Indeed, Belgian designers are known for persevering with a business approach that is often the polar opposite of today’s luxury giants: no advertising, no celebrity dressing, no handbag push, no pre-collections and no glitzy destination shows. He also gave special mention to his ravishing spring 2020 women’s collection, which he codesigned with Christian Lacroix. “He was so inspiring and so much fun to work with, so humble,” Van Noten enthused. “He’s such a fantastic person and I’m also very proud of that collection.”
As modest as his forever uniform of navy sweaters, white shirts and chinos, Van Noten demurred when asked about his legacy and proudest moments. Van Noten comes from a family of tailors and launched his label with menswear in 1986. He established his flagship store, known as Het Modepaleis and located on the site of a historic department store, in his hometown in 1989. It remains a destination today for disciples of his aesthetic., and the CFDA’s International Designer of the Year in 2008. He has also been decorated by Fashion Group International, the Couture Council of the Museum at FIT and the Flemish Royal Academy of Belgium.
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