Why lallimusic's favorite sandwich is slathered in butter:
food director Carla Lalli Music takes over our newsletter with a sleeper-hit recipe from the Test Kitchen vault, a cooking technique she’s really into, or an ingredient she can't stop thinking about. It gets better: If youI just spent three days in Milan and the most delicious thing I ate was a buttered salami sandwich.
It was also the first thing I ate, and to be honest I expected it would be bested, but that never came to pass. Immediately after checking into our hotel in the Brera neighborhood, my husband and I ducked into the legendaryaround the corner for a jet-lag prophylactic of an espresso and a snack. Sitting inside the glass-fronted case, Marchesi’s brioche panini—with its braided dough and logo’d napkin belly band—looked marvelous, classy, impeccable.
We stood at the crowded bar, extremely fashionable people elbowing in all around us, and I beheld the majesty. First of all: great bread. Enriched like a good brioche but sturdy like you want a panino to be. Second: the salami was not shaved into ribbons, but cut thick as a nickle, and arranged so that the slices overlapped at the edges but were otherwise in a single layer. I liked this! But the thing that brought it all together, as it does so often in so many scenarios, was butter.
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