As the latest guest couturier at Jean Paul Gaultier, slated to show a one-off collection in January during Paris Couture Week, Haider Ackermann cited a wish to exalt the legendary designer’s quieter side, including his tailoring prowess.
In an exclusive interview with WWD, the two designers described their long admiration for each other’s work and their mutual belief in original creativity and technical excellence.
Ackermann confessed that Gaultier was on his radar from his days as a fashion student in Antwerp, when he would come to Paris and sneak into fashion shows. Ackermann referred to himself several times as “No. 4,” following one-off Jean Paul Gaultier couture collections by Chitose Abe of Sacai, Glenn Martens of Y/Project and Olivier Rousteing, creative director of Balmain.Gaultier underscored that his intention was to invite accomplished and established designers with strong signatures to interpret his oeuvre, bringing ideas that would never had occurred to him.
While he never attended a Haider Ackermann show in person, Gaultier said he was always struck by the sophisticated colors, often acid-tinged, shown in interesting combinations. Gaultier also lauded Ackermann’s shapes, minimal and focused “without a lot of effects… which I think is great and I respect because sometimes I add a little too much — the contrary of minimal.” He laughed again.
“It’s a difficult exercise, but it’s a beautiful exercise,” he said. “When the house approached me, strangely I immediately knew what I wanted to do. It was an instinct.” Gaultier stressed that each guest designer gets carte blanche, and he does not wish to influence him or her in any way — and discover the couture collection along with the rest of the audience during the couture-week show.Gaultier said when he’s collaborated with filmmakers, for example, it is risky to accept too many recommendations because then you end up wishing to please the person instead of “doing the spontaneous things that I should do.
Yet he is relishing the surprise of the big reveal next January. “It’s a little pleasure I give myself,” he said, recalling the thrill of attending a few shows by other designers, including Thierry Mugler, early in his career. “I was loving to discover what he did, and be surprised,” he recalled. “I loved how strongly he was into his own style — to have the audacity to be outrageous sometimes.
“Also, I’m going to try to find this fine line of playfulness,” he continued. “I will explain afterwards when the collection is done how every reference came from Monsieur Gaultier, but then I translate it in my own way, how I would say it in 2022.”
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