Here, a look back at Alessandro Michelle's debut collection with Gucci:
Gucci couldn't wait for the future a second longer. Frida Giannini left the company earlier than planned, and the menswear collection she was to present today was replaced in every last detail, right down to the model casting and the seating arrangement for the show. And all in five days. Scarcely credible, but if you ever needed proof of the ancient adage that where there's a will, there's a way, then here it was.
Inevitably, the droopy, androgynous languor of the show and its blurred gender divide cast a very different spell from Giannini's recent collections. But there may actually have been a curious commonality in the fact that she was always inspired by musicians, and the clothes here also felt rooted in a subcultural music scene.
But how on earth could that become the launchpad for the label's next incarnation? Maybe there were clues in the qualities the show notes isolated as definitive of the new Gucci: nonconformist, romantic, intellectual. Some of the models sported berets, spectacles, and long, skinny scarves. There was a duffel coat in a dazzling red. Right proper existential. Was it enough? The women's show in a few weeks will undoubtedly provide more of an answer to that question.
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