Great Jones Straight Bourbon review: Manhattan has its first whiskey distillery since Prohibition, but its flagship bourbon is a bit on the drab side. whiskey bourbon cocktails
The title of “first whiskey distillery in Manhattan since Prohibition” is inherently an impressive one, though it’s not hard to understand why that accomplishment hasn’t happened until now. Whereas the likes of vodka or gin are easy to produce relatively quickly in a distillery setting, allowing for some microdistillery project to set up shop even in the incredibly expensive confines of the isle of Manhattan, American whiskey is a long haul operation.
Those stills will be used to produce whiskey for Great Jones as it grows into its own, but patrons should understand that nothing they’re consuming has been produced on site, nor will it have been for years to come. The inaugural lineup for Great Jones, which includes straight bourbon, four grain bourbon and a straight rye, are all distilled and aged atan upstate operation also owned and operated by Proximo Spirits, albeit without all the pomp and circumstance of being “Manhattan’s first.
So then, what has Great Jones actually bottled for its initial bourbon release? This is a pretty classic straight bourbon as far as the specs are concerned, made from a mash bill of corn, rye and malted barley—they don’t specify percentages exactly, but Black Dirt’s flagship bourbon seems to be 80% corn, 10% rye, 10% malted barley, all of which are grown in New York State.
On the palate, things turn a little bit hotter and spicier for the proof, and the rye in the grist is speaking up with a bit more authority. Residual sweetness is moderate, with a bit of chocolate banana, along with pepper, subtle vanilla, anise, and a little wet oak. The finish turns back to tingling pepper and chiles, a little more aggressive perhaps than one would want at the low 43% ABV.
All in all, Great Jones Straight Bourbon feels a tad immature—there’s little specifically wrong with it, but there’s very little to call out as a unique feature, either. The only real selling point that remains is its status as a New York-grown, distilled and aged bourbon, which may be of interest to some consumers. For “Manhattan’s first distillery since Prohibition,” though, one would have hoped for a launch that had a bit more verve.
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