Founders KBS Espresso review: The classic barrel-aged stout gets another coffee infusion, but does that constitute an improvement? craftbeer beertwitter
we feel that objective evaluation of a beer and its merits is always worthwhile, especially when that beer is stylistically relevant to the current beer zeitgeist. And the first ever variant of KBS? Relevant, and so here we are.out of the way, we can talk about beer. KBS Espresso is a bourbon barrel-aged chocolate coffee stout, and it is important to note that the original KBS already has a coffee addition—the B, after all, does stand for “breakfast.
So, let’s see how that additional coffee addition plays with one of the all-time great barrel-aged stouts. On the nose, I’m unsurprisingly getting big coffee, to the point that it just about takes over completely. This is very roast forward, and notable for the near total absence of booze—you would have absolutely no idea, smelling this, that it was 12% ABV. The coffee character presents with some bitter dark chocolate, intense cold brew-like purity, and perhaps a tiny hint of black licorice, but it’s a very coffee-dominant nose.
On the palate, the initial taste packs a wallop. The booze that was so totally hidden on the nose is certainly more present here, following a rush of Tootsie Roll chocolates, treacle and slightly vinous dark fruit. It settles down quickly, which is interesting—this beer packs a initial rush of sweetness and then a very fast transition to relative dryness, which is certainly unique.
This assessment likely wouldn’t surprise anyone at Founders. They made this beer to go for those who wanted an even more intense coffee experience, and that’s pretty much what they delivered. As for me, I’m still more likely to be savoring well-aged bottles of the original KBS.
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