An inside look at the partnership between choreographer/director Bob Fosse and legendary dancer Gwen Verdon—two of the most influential artists of the 20th century—FX limited series Fosse/Verdon co…
, opening up her world—and Gwen’s personal wardrobe—for her to see.Below, the esteemed costume designer discusses her collaboration with Fosse on the critically acclaimed series, from Thomas Kail and Steven Levenson.
Absolutely. The thing that I bring to the table, in general in my work, is authenticity. That’s where my interest lies, anyway, and that was where everybody wanted to go with it, down to the last detail. When you recreate film sequences—like, for instance,—these are things that live in audiences’ minds for a long, long time, and they could really smell a rat. If something is just a little bit off, we were going to get pounded. I mean, we were a little nervous about it.
It’s not a given, working on a period piece, that you’ll have access to someone like Nicole Fosse, who can fill in certain blanks. What was it like working with her and being able to access theOh my God, it was amazing, actually. There was a piece that we really wanted and needed, which was a beaded jacket sort of shirt. It was almost like a medieval piece of chain mail that Gwen wore backwards and forwards, in many, many photographs that we saw.
I think Fosse himself was ahead of the curve. He was a dancer, so everything was body-conscious and wanting to create that dancer’s line. It just so happened that he, in a great sense, was living in the right decade: His big decade, the ‘70s, hewed to that idea. The shirts were very slim, but at the same time a little bedraggled. I wanted to make sure that I got the point across that people dressed very casually, and weren’t necessarily completely polished and manicured during this time frame.
The series portrays Nicole Fosse at several different ages. What was it like costuming the actresses playing her, while working with Fosse herself behind the scenes? One of the things that I touched on, because I’m very interested in it, is where women’s fashion goes from decade to decade, and how that’s reflecting the social mores and what have you. One thing that I was fascinated by was pictures of Gwen from the ’40s, where she’s wearing pants. That was something that was not unheard of, but not common. I think it was partially because she was a dancer, partially because she always had an affinity for comfort that you can only get from a menswear vibe.
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