Indigenous chefs and authors discuss the beloved and thorny legacy of the food.
after losing a relative to diabetes. “It’s the connecting dot between healthy children and obesity, hypertension, diabetes, dialysis, blindness, amputations, and slow death.”
Chef Crystal Wahpepah at Wahpepah's Kitchen, her buzzy restaurant, through which she aims to reclaim Native foodwaysMaillard doesn’t think it’s that simple. “Ascribing the health problems within Native America to this one food is short-sighted, since it’s really a combination of factors,” he says, adding that fry bread’s intricate preparation means it’s not an everyday food in his household.
Sherman agrees there’s no need to nix it from the Indigenous diet, with a caveat. “In food, there are no rules,” he says. “Fry bread makes people happy and is always going to be tied to Natives because of the history. But it shouldn’t define all of us.” Just as there’s no single Native experience across the United States’—each with their own cultures, traditions, and foodways—there’s no single Native food.
In that way, the buzzy Native restaurants around the country reflect each chef’s unique tribal heritage—fry bread or not. At
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