Fleishers, the original “rock star” butcher, has closed for good. calaesthetic writes on how the company went from artisanal darling to dead meat in less than a year
Steaks, on display. Photo: Jason Yang On July 22, 2021, John Adams, the CEO of Fleishers Craft Butchery, took a train from New York City to the company’s shop in Westport, Connecticut. When Divone Thompson, the location manager, saw Adams, he believed he was being fired. Conditions within the company had deteriorated throughout the pandemic, and business at the four Fleishers locations had dropped.
After the July 23 walkout, most of the employees simply quit. All of the shops remained closed until this past March, when the Park Slope store reopened. Now it too has closed for good; Adams says he is negotiating with suppliers and landlords and hopes to “close the business gracefully.” The Applestones soon attracted attention and devised a unique approach to their wholesale business. Instead of breaking down whole steers into steaks and burgers, they could train butchers from other shops and then simply send whole carcasses directly to restaurants for their workers to break down in-house. Tom Mylan was their first student when he was an employee at Brooklyn’s Marlow & Daughters restaurant group.
The combined businesses were still scrambling for cash when Rosania, a regular customer at the Westport shop, entered the picture, becoming the company’s lead investor. He envisioned a future where Fleishers’ products were a luxury good — which alienated many people on staff. “They come from a place of, like, really caring about their work and believing in something,” says Zachary Pierce, a former employee. “Then he’s like, ‘We’re just going to sell meat to rich people.
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