The Row, Proenza, and Oscar de la Renta offered the most focused shows of NYFW, writes CathyHoryn
Oscar de la Renta, The Row, Proenza Schouler Photo: Getty Images Although the shows have been going since last week, they really began on Monday at 9:06 a.m. That’s roughly when Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen of The Row started their show. At 9:11, it was over.
“The definition of luxury is making your life easier,” Mary-Kate told a reporter last month, when she and her sister presented their pre-fall line in Paris. Yesterday’s show offered the same mood. It also offered a similar fit, along with fine-knit turtlenecks paired with cotton shirts, though I would say this collection looks even more simplified.
A high-fashion label, whether minimalist or decorative, implies some curiosity about technique and craft. I think, for example, of Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s spring 2020 women’s collection for Hermès with its extraordinary look at the company’s leather tradition.
Proenza Schouler Photo: Getty Images That meant beautiful woolen and duvet-style coats that spilled off one shoulder, like a garment sort of half-clutched around the body, and knitted pieces that seemed to do the same. Yet, in reality, the coats and pea jackets are conventionally cut and can be worn without that stagey gesture.
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