“You don’t get to have that many debuts in your career,” Ludovic de Saint Sernin told WWD in an exclusive interview ahead of his debut collection as creative director for Ann Demeulemeester on Saturday.
Revamping Demeulemeester is a large undertaking, not least because many from his and following generations don’t know the Belgian designer and her part in the era-defining Antwerp Six. “So there is this whole thing of just highlighting everything that she has done and owning again and giving her that power back, then taking it to the next level for the future,” he said., to be revealed at 8 p.m. on Saturday at the Lycée Carnot in Paris, will be “a love letter.
“Ann was all about shows,” he said. “She didn’t do a lot of imagery and all you know of her is runway photos.” Overall, he plans to showcase “a more mature approach where I want to also present myself as a couturier,” in contrast with his own brand, where he prefers not to take himself too seriously and doesn’t feel “a need to spell it out for people.”
To approach “such a personal brand and such a poetic and beautiful story,” de Saint Sernin felt he had to “get into the character,” going as far as to try on archival looks he’d singled out from the book because he “wanted to know how it felt,” since photos didn’t fully expose every aspect.
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