The chef and owner behind our No. 2 Best New Restaurant in America, Khao Noodle Shop, shares his story.
, is a huge part of why Dallas is suddenly such an exciting place to eat. Partly because his Laotian small plates are so good they could make you cry. But also because of the energy Sirisavath's success has generated in the city, his role as a second-generation chef in a city made great by immigrants, and the twisting-turning story of how it all happened—which starts before he was even born. Here, in his own words, is that story.
Even though I was born in Texas, I always felt more like a refugee. I got held back in first grade because I didn’t want to speak English. My family and I were part of a strong Laotian immigrant community, the kind where everybody helps each other out. We lived off what we grew and raised ducks, chickens, and rabbits in the backyard. I bled my first duck at seven years old!
College wasn’t for me, so I dropped out and just took a bunch of odd jobs: worked on airplanes with my brother, worked in IT, worked for Samsung. I became a mailman for a minute. That was brutal because, you know, you have to walk… a lot. I considered going back to school for cooking at Le Cordon Bleu.
Every day from then on out it was, “Mom, what are we cooking today? What are you hungry for?” And then I’d make it, from memories of when she made it for me. I remembered the smells, the textures. My brain is like a rolodex of all the food I’ve eaten throughout my life. That’s why I don’t write down recipes—even my mom’s. I’d rather keep that memory inside. Cooking is like meditation for me. I forget about everything: stress, money, problems.
Things got bigger and we ended up taking over the kitchen of a local bar for the pop-ups—all they had was campfire burners but we made it work. My buddy Tex joined me and soon we were doing like 65 people. We actually sent up a tent outside the bar, and cooked out there. Propane burners, a grill. Street food style: Two-bite dishes, noodles. We were reintroducing Laotian food the way we eat it, but with a more modern interpretation—interpretation. From there we just popped up all around town.
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