Dispatch From Paris: As Restaurants Close, Chefs Donate Their Food

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Dispatch From Paris: As Restaurants Close, Chefs Donate Their Food
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Crowded food markets and shuttered storefronts fill the City of Light in the wake of coronavirus closures.

Sundays are generally quiet in Paris, but mornings can be hectic as many markets, grocery stores or independent epiceries are only open for business until about 1 p.m. So when the government announced on Saturday night that allshops, cafes and restaurants would now have to close as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, I wondered how the French might fare with this loss of … fare. At around 10:30 a.m.

What I saw blew my mind. People were shopping, shoulder-to-shoulder, as if it were any other Sunday. This didn’t feel like doomsday prep. There was no sort of urgency. The buskers singing Edith Piaf songs were still entertaining shoppers who were feeling Peruvian avocados for ripeness and sniffing clementines from Corsica as if it were any other weekend. And, oui, it happened to be a beautiful spring one at that; a balmy 55 degrees.

Despite being busy themselves all last week, he said they made the decision to do takeaway only at Mokoloco starting Monday and to cut breakfast and limit their lunch covers at Mokonuts. “And then the shutdown happened.”While they divvied up what was left in their fridge and gave it to staff and close friends, other restaurants and cafes took more entrepreneurial measures.

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