Dispatch from Paris: a certain dish for uncertain times.
as a native New Yorker my answer is always the same: The average workday is just the slightest bit shorter. Like when the bartender tops off your wine glass with the last sip in the bottle—that little bit makes all the difference. The French prioritize time for socializing. In New York, plans with friends have to be made at least a week in advance , whereas in France, meeting for an apéro after work is as natural as picking up groceries on the way home.
A few people strolled slowly with leashed dogs. The rare pedestrians crossing paths eyed each other cautiously over the edges of taut face masks. I turned onto an empty block and felt a strange thrill to have it all to myself, if just until the next corner. I passed the navy blue awning of a Monceau flower shop. Like many businesses, the shop had given away their flowers for free, unloading inventory that would otherwise be wasted.
I reached my building’s door just as an elderly neighbor was leaving, sporting a tailored skirt and a navy, light wool coat, her silver hair neatly pinned at the nape of her neck. She rolled an empty market cart behind her.we heard a rumble outside. I pulled our windows open and poked my head out to listen. Shadowy silhouettes stood in windows across and down the street. In every direction, people were clapping.
As I stand in my kitchen to make myself lunch, I gently tap an egg against our concrete counter. It breaks easily into the mixing bowl. I use my thumbs to scrape inside each shell before tossing it into the trash. Then I throw in a few pinches of Guérande sea salt and whisk the eggs vigorously. I add a pat of good Normandy butter to a nonstick pan over medium-low heat.
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