Testy and uncompromising, she drove her truck across Mexico for decades, collecting and preserving regional ingredients and recipes.
Diana Kennedy, the British-born author who translated her love of Mexican cuisine into cookbooks that made hundreds of regional recipes accessible to home cooks in the U.S. at a time when many still thought of the cuisine as little more than combo plates and tacos, has died at her home in the Mexican state of Michoacán. She was 99.and by longtime friend and collaborator, chef Gabriela Cámara. She died Sunday morning at 5 a.m. of respiratory failure, Cámara said.
. “As much time and trouble should go into the preparation as into that of any intricate French dish.”“Diana went to Mexico and got it, right away, that she was in the presence of something extraordinary, something that wasn’t particularly valued even by the Mexican people,” Fran McCullough, Kennedy’s editor for more than 20 years, told The Times.
“Diana wants things done right. Her integrity stands out,” said Tom Gilliland, a friend of Kennedy and owner of Fonda San Miguel restaurant in Austin, Texas. She helped him plan the restaurant’s first menu after she visited it in the early 1970s. Gilliland and the restaurant’s late chef and part owner, Miguel Ravago, had both read her book “The Cuisines of Mexico” before they met her. The array of regional dishes impressed them.
Since the late 1970s she resided in an ecological house with solar and wind power, surrounded by four acres of organic vegetable gardens in Coatepec de Morelos, a village near the city of Zitácuaro, about 100 miles west of Mexico City.In “Nothing Fancy,” which premieres virtually Friday, the queen of Mexican regional cooking confronts mortality and the director of her documentary.
If anyone asked her how a native of England could master the foods of Yucatan, Mexico City, Dolores Hidalgo, Veracruz and environs, she was ready for them. Kennedy drove herself across the great expanses of Mexico in her camper truck, gathering recipes and insights from home cooks for decades.
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