‘Deeply personal’: North Texans react to Theaster Gates’ new food pop-up at the Nasher

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‘Deeply personal’: North Texans react to Theaster Gates’ new food pop-up at the Nasher
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A curated menu, ceramics and playlist combine influences from Japan and the African American South.

Installation view of "Afro Mingei" by Theaster Gates at the Nasher Sculpture Center in Dallas. Gates' works courtesy of Gray Gallery and Theaster Gates Studio.There was an unusual scene at the Nasher Sculpture Center last week. A small group of North Texans sat around a dining table, sipping aged Japanese whiskey and eating cornmeal dumplings while a record of soul-singer October London’s “Colorblind” played.

When visitors walk in, they’re greeted by host Mary Poole Driver. Unlike at a traditional restaurant, Poole — who works for the Nasher — is there to do more than rave about the pork rinds or explain that the nuttiness of the tea cookies comes from sesame, not peanuts. She acts as a kind ofwas inspired by Gates’ travels to Japan. There he came across the philosophy of “mingei” which roughly translates to “craft of the everyday people.

Humber and Egbele ordered all of the hot plates from the menu: heirloom cornmeal dumplings, karaage chicken and a wagyu skewer dish. Egbele said he really enjoyed his Japanese whiskey and the cornmeal dumplings, which were served in a warm shiitake leek broth and topped with chili oil.

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