Daily News | Coatesville chef Chris Scott talks the sweet and sour flavors of Amish soul food
said in a recent Zoom chat. “It is that classic mix of German and Dutch sweet-and-sour flavors blended with soul food that defines Amish soul food. And I’m telling you, it was the bomb.”Homage: Recipes + Stories from an Amish Soul Food Kitchen.is more than a picturesque book filled with scrumptious-looking meals like lemonade-buttermilk fried chicken and peach cobbler.
Scott grew up in Coatesville with his grandmother, “Nana” Pearl Brown, whose parents moved to the sleepy Pennsylvania town in the early 1900s during the Great Migration. Brown — like many other Black families who settled near Amish country — infused Amish ingredients with traditional soul food. She made Eastern European staples like spaetzle and potato dumplings along with white rice. She kept several jars of chowchow, or Amish relish, in her cupboards.
It’s that amplification of sweet and sourness. Take my lemonade fried chicken recipe. You have a flavor that’s not necessarily sweet, but it’s brined and it’s very bright. You know what I mean? It’s not a sweet tea brine. I’m talking buttermilk, hot sauce, some spices. I mean this not about having a jug of Country Time doused on chicken. No. No. No. It’s a bright, hot, and sweet flavor that’s distinctively inspired by Amish cuisine.
Do you really put two pigs’ feet, two smoked ham hocks, and four smoked neck bones in your collard greens? Even my mama doesn’t use that much meat in her collards and we love some meaty collards. It depends on how much I’m making. I peel the skin off and chop the meat up and throw it back in there and then you have the smoked meat in the pot likker. Potlikker, the juice from the greens, is the best part. It’s a tonic. In my case, it’s the most nutritious and enriched part, you make a stew and a stock, that’s good eating.Not really. But we all shopped in the same stores. There wasn’t much intermingling. We really kind of picked up each other’s culture by osmosis.Everything must be cold.
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