The Central American country of Belize offers a choose-your-own adventure for travelers, from touring Mayan ruins to relaxing at resorts.
Tobacco Caye, a small tropical island at Barrier Reef with paradise beach in Belize.
With coronavirus rules in the rearview, the country is poised for a busy season in 2023. But Belize is also, refreshingly, the least populous country in Central America. The largest crowd I saw when I visited last winter was in its cramped central airport. Once we were free from customs, I pulled our rental SUV onto a barren highway surrounded only by wetlands and signs warning of tapir crossings.
In the western Cayo District, we checked into Ka’ana Resort, an all-inclusive ecolodge outside the bustling small city of San Ignacio. On a manicured estate under towering trees, our condo above the pool was decorated in mahogany. Dinner was served in a “Bachelor”-esque courtyard: a richly spiced, blackened yellowfin tuna for me, followed by ice cream made with a daily fruit from the grounds.
Hungry, I was relieved to discover we were not far from Blancaneaux Lodge, one of two luxury “hideaways” in Belize owned by the family of filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola. As fans of everything from “Apocalypse Now” to daughter Sofia’s “Lost in Translation,” we had to drop into the gated estate for dinner. In true “Godfather” fashion, we tucked into a killer Italian meal at their Montagna Ristorante.
On Tuesday, we descended the idyllic, 53-mile Hummingbird Highway to the sea, stopping only at a roadside chocolate stand. In the coastal town of Dangriga, we laid eyes on the blue Caribbean for the first time on the trip. We stashed the SUV in a designated spot and boarded a shuttle boat, which whisked us 11 miles across choppy waters to a tiny island known as Tobacco Caye.
Joe, the chef, served up three meals a day of Belizean meats and veggies, while the guests gathered to share their day’s exploits. Everybody was a little bit eccentric and extremely happy to be there. Elliott from Canada was on a long-term stay, he said, to “reset my circadian rhythms.” Caitlin from Oregon clutched a Belize field guide and enumerated the multicolored, otherworldly fish and coral she’d seen.
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