The chef is opening new restaurants and closing others as he works to perfect the mix in a growing city with an ever-evolving culinary scene.
Johnny Hernandez has opened restaurants across San Antonio and in Las Vegas, weathering what the chef calls a rollercoaster of profitability.Chef Johnny Hernandez has been building a food and beverage empire in San Antonio since opening a catering business in 1994.
What Hernandez is not done with is staying nimble in a notoriously fast-paced and fickle industry. Whether it’s opening new restaurants in his hometown, resolving uncertainties over others, relying on his keen sense for spotting when something isn’t working or knowing when to seize a new opportunity, Hernandez is a smart businessman who’s willing to try new things and pivot quickly.
Employees prepare samples of menu items offered at Super Bien, a new Tex-Mex eatery from Chef Johnny Hernandez located in San Antonio International Airport’s Terminal A.Hernandez was one of the first restaurant owners in San Antonio to find a creative way to keep the business going and his staff employed when the COVID-19 pandemic began.
“In 2021, the food industry was talking about the workforce shortage,” he said. “In 2022, it became everyone’s conversation. Everyone was short employees,” driving up wages and slowing the economy. The River Walk restaurant has spun off several other locations, including sites at the AT&T Center, Toyota Field and the airport, introducing new customers to the brand and diversifying the business.
“Our future at Pearl, I really have no idea,” he said. But if not at the Pearl, La Gloria would have a flagship location somewhere in the city, Hernandez assured. El Machito was the most difficult concept he’s ever operated, Hernandez said. “We made a lot of adjustments and I think it took us about a year and a half to get to a point where we were doing well,” he said. “But we never thrived.”The Frutería Southtown, a fresh tapas and street fare restaurant at 1401 S. Flores St. reopened in August following a months-long renovation and menu revamp. Its hours also got slashed to dinner only.
During the pandemic, Hernandez added a mobile service to his portfolio with La Gloria-branded food trucks serving margaritas. He also partnered with H-E-B to supply customers with pre-packaged fresh foods from his restaurants.
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