San Francisco champagne bar The Riddler has opened in the West Village.
When Jen Pelka moved to New York some 15 years ago, a recent college graduate who was working at the hedge fund D. E. Shaw, Champagne to her embodied the big-city-bright-lights lifestyle she associated with Manhattan. She and her friends were regulars at the now-closed Schiller’s, where they would walk in and the bartender would put a bottle of prosecco atop the bar, rarely with an accompanying bill.
Pelka loves Champagne — it’s hard to imagine someone speaking more enthusiastically about bubbly than she does — and she wants her customers to experience the special quality it brings to any night, whether a special occasion or an average Tuesday, like the ones she had back in her early twenties. “They were all very clubby. They were the kind of places where you could go and get bottle service and they’d bring out a bottle of Cristal with a sparkler in it, and it was really truly a club, with a huge Champagne list,” she says. “So obviously that’s not what we are. I mean, I think of us really as like a European-style café that has a killer, killer Champagne list.”
“Especially because Champagne can be so intimidating to people, I think it’s really fun to pair Champagnes with comfort foods that we all know and love,” Pelka says. “[My parents] told me the only thing I couldn’t major in was philosophy, and the only thing I couldn’t do is open restaurants because it’s crazy. I’m not very rebellious, but on those two things I did not take their advice.”
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