This artichoke revolution that has uprooted thousands of acres of traditional artichokes across Castroville — the “Artichoke Center of the World” — and replaced them with n…
CASTROVILLE – Quietly, over the last two decades, the beloved California artichoke has undergone a radical transformation.
In many ways, the artichoke is no different than countless other fruits and vegetables bred to increase production and extend their seasons and shelf life. But to Californians who grew up eating artichokes on Easter — the dark green water could dye an egg! – there’s something extra special about them.
Some of the new varieties are quite tasty: Spring is the natural harvest season, but artichoke lovers can enjoy the “Desert Globe” in the winter that is meaty and flavorful. Sometimes in the summer, however, shoppers can be stuck with rock hard, softball-shaped hybrids with tight leaves that couldn’t boil their way to tenderness. Choosing an off-season artichoke can require the same scrutiny and finesse as detecting the perfect avocado.
Chef Jonny Black, of Carmel, prepares Roman-style fried artichokes using heirloom baby artichokes at his restaurant Chez Noir in Carmel-By-The-Sea, Calif., on Tuesday, May 23, 2023. Black uses artichokes grown by Pezzini Farms exclusively. “We recognize that there’s no point in breeding an artichoke if it doesn’t deliver on that really delicious consumer experience,” said Mark Munger, Ocean Mist’s marketing director.
Canastas, the backpack used to harvest artichokes, are placed on a rack before being sorted and packed at an Ocean Mist Farms field in Castroville, Calif., on Tuesday, May 23, 2023. The Castroville-based company sells about 70% of the artichokes in North America.
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