California, We Don’t Want Your Mexican Chain Selling Single Tacos for $17

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California, We Don’t Want Your Mexican Chain Selling Single Tacos for $17
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With the city’s appetite for Mexican food on the rise, we’ve become a convenient target for national chains that provide lackluster renditions of Mexican cuisines. (via EaterNY)

Sol claims to serve Baja-style Mexican food. It occupies a corporate-looking corner premises that is all dark woods and windows, with a long bar separated from the dining room by a low wall with a view of four giant TVs that are hard to ignore.

The menu is mainly pricey antojitos — tacos, quesadillas, burritos, and, only at lunch, tortas: plus a heavy emphasis on cocktails and shots of tequila. There are 11 margaritas in two sizes , including blackberry ginger and cucumber jalapeno, with a “margarita del sol” shaken tableside for $32. When I went with three friends, we skipped the booze.

Dishes we expected to see from that region were completely lacking: There were no aguachiles, for example, and only two ceviches, the first, the hot-and-raw tropical ceviche, with no fish. The second was made with actual fish finely minced, too sweet and priced at $22. Do corporate bigwigs think New Yorkers are afraid of raw fish?

Diving into the tacos, a large section features either two or three per plate with a small serving of beans and rice that we became tired of seeing. The breaded and fried fish tacos, Baja style, were good, though the portion of fish hilariously small; more interesting was the grilled fish zarandeado, a method of preparationfurther down the Mexican coast: almost on-topic for the restaurant.

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