Our new wine index shows which grape you should pick for tasty returns
like to proclaim that “all roads lead to Burgundy.” They often wince at the plonk they drank when starting their hobby. In America and Australia, a common entry point is local “fruit bombs”: heavy, alcoholic wines that taste of plum or blackberry; bear the vanilla or mocha imprint of oak barrels; and should be drunk within a few years of bottling.As oenophiles gain experience, they start seeking reds to have with, say, chicken as well as steak.
Moreover, red Burgundy is made from Pinot Noir, a grape with a maddening ageing pattern. After a few years of storage, it tends to “shut down” and lose flavour. The best wines blossom after a few decades, but many never “wake up” from their slumber. As tastes moved on from commoditised Bordeaux, mastery of Burgundy became seen as the test of connoisseurship, both in Asia and the West. But the region’s vast array of wines—including trophies as scarce as 300 bottles a year—makes reliable pricing data hard to find. Among the hundreds of fine red Burgundies, Liv-ex, a marketplace, includes just 11 in its regional index.
Collectors who have drunk most of their Pinot already may need another glass after seeing the results. By the end of 2018, red Burgundy had returned 497%, versus 279% for the500. The index has also been less volatile than stocks are, though this may be an artefact of how it is calculated: no one knows what each wine would have sold for in the crash of 2008-09. Bordeaux and Champagne rose by 214% in 2003-18; everywhere else did worse.
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