What most Americans want isn’t “Japanese”; what they want is Japanese-y.
It isn’t the food that does it for me; not the USDA Choice steak and certainly not the chicken . It isn’t even the exuberant faux friendliness of the service, even if I get a little thrill of excitement whenever the entire floor staff gathers ‘round to sing happy birthday to a table twice, once in English and another in perfunctory if adequate Japanese.
It isn’t even the outright wackiness—the flying shrimp tails or the onion volcano or the egg juggling or any of the other cooking acrobatics. Now, I don’t usually sit around and think about Benihana and why it’s good, although I often sit around and think about why other restaurants I go to are bad. Which is another way of saying I’ve never found Benihana offensive in the slightest, even though I can’t really say I enjoy the food. But this past summer, social media conspired against my studied complacency about examining the Benihana experience too closely.
Not with the quality of the food, which was not good ; not with the service, since every server performed Benihana’s trademark enthusiastic disinterest admirably; not with the show, of course .Granted, Benihana does serve sushi, but the main attraction, the stuff you order so Benihana cooks can sterilize it mercilessly in front of you and the stuff the place is known for—if it’s known for its food at all, that is—isn’t Japanese.
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