'Bad Vegan: Fame. Fraud. Fugitives' Review: Chris Smith’s Netflix series looks at the rise and fall of Sarma Melngailis and her ultra-trendy, plant-focused restaurant Pure Food & Wine
Google the New York restaurant Pure Food & Wine and you’ll find photos of an uncommonly airy Midtown patio space; portraits of soaring, meatless food architecture; and a forbidding legend: “Permanently Closed.” How one of New York’s hotter foodie destinations got eighty-sixed is the subject of “Bad Vegan: Fame. Fraud. Fugitives,” though exactlyit all happened still may seem as cloudy as a quart of kombucha, even after the four episodes of director Chris Smith’s engrossing docuseries.
The enigmatic ingredient is Sarma Melngailis, who took Pure Food & Wine and its takeout offshoot, One Lucky Duck, to the top of the Manhattan food chain after she and celebrity chef Matthew Kenney opened their raw-food eatery in 2004 . Veganism was hardly as ubiquitous as it is now, but after Mr.
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