View every look from Bach Mai's fall 2023 collection:
Women’s anger is a touchy subject, one that unexpectedly surfaced, in completely different ways, at Elena Velez and at Bach Mai’s Cave of the Sirens presentation. Usually three makes a trend, but as “hell hath no fury like a woman scorned,” let’s say the intensity fills in for the volume.
Mai, still new on the scene, is developing in public, and as with last season, he didn’t play it safe. For fall, he set aside his signature volante silhouette in favor of something new, “a very undulating siren shape as opposed to the cupcake for so long,” as the designer put it. Mai emphasized this shift to the more sensual and womanly by showing his clothes on models in the size 4-12 range, making him one of the few designers to commit to body diversity in New York this season.
You could see this choice as an extension of the premise for the show; Mai imagined shafts of light penetrating a sea cave, “Darkness pierced. Sirens’… wrath veiled in fragility” as he put it in the show notes. This wasn’t exactly mermaid core; as the designer noted, sirens lure sailors to their death. Still, shimmery moirés and sequins in turquoise were printed with a sea-themed print, and contrasted with black.
The sunken treasure in this collection was an homage to Karl Lagerfeld. It was found in the LBDs and the strapless bell shaped tunics over long, stem-like skirts. “I grew up loving Karl Lagerfeld and what he was doing for couture and at Chanel was so impactful,” said Mai, a keen student of fashion history. “So this collection really is a study in this nostalgia of Lagerfeldian things filtered through my creative universe.” Consider this a heads-up for Costume Institute invitees.
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