Do what works
Left to right: Coach, Altuzarra, Christian Siriano. Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Coach, Altruzarra, Christian Siriano You would be forgiven for thinking the opening sequence of the Coach show Monday evoked Stranger Things. The lighting was the light of nightfall, and the set was a series of small frame houses on a street somewhere in America. A person comes out of the shadows to walk a fancy Afghan dog. Three kids climb out of a second-floor window and crouch on the roof.
But I kept wondering, Who dresses this way in 2022? Altuzarra had a good thing going with his fleece-collared pea jackets and handsome military-inspired coats. Since the start of his career, he’s been a source of great outerwear. And his sweaters this season have a nice, worn, romantic quality like a treasure pulled out a seaman’s moth-filled locker. But the collection as a whole seemed weighed down by the many ankle-length skirts, the clunky platforms, and the drowning embellishment.
But Siriano, who counts as a genuine success story in American fashion, also had regular clients in his front row, not just the VIPs. “You know, some of our women are buying the whole collection,” he said. “No store today is going to do that for us. We felt that was important right now.”
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