At N.Y.C.’s New Moono, Michelin-Starred Chef Hoyoung Kim Explores the Casual Side of Korean Cooking

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At N.Y.C.’s New Moono, Michelin-Starred Chef Hoyoung Kim Explores the Casual Side of Korean Cooking
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Tantalize your taste buds and step into Moono, the cool and casual spot by chef Hoyoung Kim. 🍽️

Divided into nine sections—which might seem like a lot—there are typically only a couple of dishes per category, making the menu approachable, and keeping the decision fatigue to a minimum. In the Ssam /Muchim category, scallops are served with agar, cucumber, and Granny’s apple, while the Hoe Muchim + Kim combines salmon with gochujang and soy-bean powder. There are also Twigim plates like spicy fried chicken and fried pork dumplings, and Jeon such as buckwheat crepes and mung-bean pancakes.

Larger dishes run the gamut from seafood to meat . For fans of hot pot, there’s a spicy beef-broth option as well as a Pyongyang-style version with beef brisket, mushroom, and crown daisy. Foie gras appears in both a rice dish with gold queen rice and mushrooms and a noodle dish with anchovy and seaweed. You can round out your meal with either buckwheat or burdock ice cream.

To accompany Kim’s menu, Jaehoon No has crafted a beverage program designed to highlight Korean spirits like soju, makgeolli, fruit wine, and yakju. Beers include both Korean ales and local craft brews, while the wine list features delicate, floral bottles that pair well with Kim’s flavors., meaning “gateway,” and the space’s design further plays on that concept.

The landmarked building, built in 1889, also contains a third floor, which Kim plans to turn into an intimate chef’s-counter restaurant next year. That gives diners a chance to fully enjoy the Moono experience before trying out the lauded chef’s next venture.

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