Just in: Thom Browne has been named the new chair of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), succeeding Tom Ford.
Thom Browne is sitting in his office, waiting for a model to appear. Across the marble table, a design director, Thi Wan, sits with a thick sheaf of sketches. They are reviewing looks for their October show; Browne is quietly attentive, with his glasses riding high on his nose.
In his younger years, with his buzz-cropped hair and his Clark Kent jawline, Browne looked like the college athlete turned briefcase-toting businessman that, in a sense, he had become. Now, with a salt-and-pepper gray and the gravitas of middle-middle age—Browne recently turned 57—his visage has a bullish, magisterial air, and it is easy to imagine him as the lord of a large manor: an image that, likewise, is not these days wildly untrue to life.
Thom Browne is sitting in his office, reflecting on his past. “I think I probably will always be perfecting what I started 20 years ago, and that probably will go on forever, because I don’t think I’ll ever be able to perfect it,” he says. He is wearing a tightly tailored gray jacket over a dark gray sweater, a dark gray tie, a white shirt, pleated shorts, and black brogues with no visible socks: the look on which his work has played in ever more extravagant variations.
Browne’s siblings grew up to become lawyers, businesspeople, doctors, and, in one case, a current Republican Pennsylvania state senator. After a flirtation with Japanese studies, Thom majored in business. Even then, he says, the idea of becoming a designer, or even working creatively, had barely struck him. “I had no creative expression,” he says.While living in L.A.
Browne describes himself as ambivalent about dressing celebrities—“It depends on who it is”—but does it often, across an electric range of personalities and styles: His posse at last year’s Met Gala alone included Fallon, Erykah Badu, Pete Davidson, Lee Pace, Michaela Jaé Rodriguez, Amandla Stenberg, and Lil Uzi Vert; this year’s roster included Lakers star Russell Westbrook, who wore a top hat, a gold chain, black-and-white-striped socks, and white-tie kit with a long black pleated skirt.
Browne and Bolton describe themselves as having a domestic life that is both simple and preternaturally placid. “Thom is the calmest person I’ve ever come across,” Bolton says, “and there’s a specific, soft cadence to our lives.” They rise early to exercise. Browne breakfasts at Sant Ambroeus, an upscale café chain, and then heads to his offices in a nondescript building on a loud, crowded block of West 35th Street, beside a lunch buffet and opposite a fabric store.
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